Vilmart's latest NV Brut Premier Cru Grande Réserve is showing beautifully, bursting with aromas of pear, wheat toast, yeast extract and confit citrus. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and complete, it's fleshy and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit, tangy acids and a pillowy mousse. While it's already showing well it will also age with grace. 90 points. William Kelley.