While it rightly reveals the openness of the warm vintage with its flavour profile, this remains a stylish wine underscored by lovely acidity and some funky detail. White peach, grapefruit and preserved lemon with an oyster shell briny note and grilled nuts, so there’s a savoury element, too. Plus, a whisper of moreish sulphides and superfine lees add a level of complexity across the palate. Refreshing and delicious.95 points. Halliday Wine Companion.