This wine is made in the pursuit of both texture and flavour and the outcome is exactly that, texture and fruit weight, set within a context of both freshness and taut control. It’s pretty damn impressive. Pepper, metal, brine, cooked apple, preserved citrus and nut-like characters all make positive contributions here, as do whispers of Vietnamese mint. This wine is excellent now, and will build with extra time in the bottle. 94+ points. Campbell Mattinson, The Winefront.
