How can a mysterious labyrinth be so delightful? Because at every turn there’s a new aspect of the wine’s beauty. The incredible tension between the flinty and floral aspects of this wine makes it remarkably energetic for a dry riesling with this level of concentration. Then comes an astonishing Amalfi lemon freshness in the super-long and precise finish. Drink or hold. 98 points. Stuart Pigott.
