If Purus is a glass box in a Scandinavian forest, this is the stuffed drawing room of a stately home, adornment in abundance, a feast for the senses. The one with the lot. Gin Gin unchained. Popcorn and curry leaf, grapefruit pith and yellow nectarine, grilled pineapple and nougat. Glorious. 96 points. Nick Ryan.
