Lovely depth of flavour, offering pronounced aromas of lemon peel and Granny Smith apples – more taut and chiselled than the Beauregard. The structure is admirably racy for the vintage, with plenty of freshness to counterbalance the rich extract. The grapes are from a section of Jessiaume's Gravières on white marl; there are 1.2ha in production today, with another half-hectare planted but declassified for now. 94 points. Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.