Radically smoky and massively structured in spite of being only medium-bodied, this astonishingly dry Riesling expresses the personality of this volcanic site with great authority and precision. So much spice, structure and hardness in the positive sense, meaning that this is not a wine for the faint of heart. Massive power in the imposing finish, yet absolutely clean and bright. Drink or hold. 98 points. Stuart Pigott.
