2021 Nicola Bergaglio Rovereto Gavi di Gavi

The wine stayed on the lees until the end of February following the vintage but no lees-stirring was involved, instead it was racked once a month. No MLF. Brilliant straw yellow. Complex but still a little subdued and minerally rather than fruity. Immediate lively energetic attack and then linear while the palate is filled out with fragrant fruit. Amazing length and truly streamlined by the acidity. Drink 2022 – 2030. 17.5/20 Walter Speller, JancisRobinson.com.