2021 Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay Vieilles Vignes Rouge

Benefiting from impeccable viticulture and also the choice to declassify any under-performing lots to Bourgogne level, Vincent's 2021 Santenay Vieille Vignes bursts with aromas of orange zest, plums, smoke and spices. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a rich core of fruit and fine, chalky tannins, it's a terrific effort that can compete with the results of more propitious growing seasons—and its aromatic, supple style will make it especially appealing young. 90 points. William Kelley.