2021 Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay Vieilles Vignes Rouge

Vincent’s old-vine village Santenay boasts aromas of ripe black plum, with notes of earth, mineral, and an almost animal intensity. The texture is tannic and full-bodied, with much more concentration than expected from the 2021 vintage. Half of the grapes were fermented as whole clusters using very little sulfur—only a tiny amount added before bottling in the form of mined sulfur instead of the sort derived from refining petroleum. 92 points. Charles Curtis M.W. Decanter.