The older vines and organically tended vineyards here translate more character, refinement, and classical restraint—not to mention supersized minerality and ozone salinity. There is even more Chablisien detail this year. The texture is succulent, with the rippling splendour of stone fruit and citrus-skin zestiness to go with its charged acidity and jangle of minerals. The three Ps: power, poise, and persistence. A super villages. Rob Walters.
