The 1993 Barbaresco Santo Stefano is a perfect wine to start the evening, as it introduces a number of themes without being so serious or important as to be overpowering. Sweet tobacco, leather and a host of fully mature, tertiary notes give the wine its distinct personality. There is plenty of depth to the fruit, but the aromatics are fully tertiary. For that reason, any remaining bottles are best finished off sooner rather than later. Antonio Galloni, Vinous.