2022 Domaine Jessiaume, Numerus Clausus, Santenay, 1er Cru Les Gravières

William Waterkeyn at Jessiaume has set aside five barrels of Gravières from his oldest vines (80-years-old) to produce this super-cuvée. The winemaking is the same, except there is slightly more new wood (two barrels out of five). The fruit is deep and dark, with notes of cassis and mulberry and hints of leather, bay leaf, wood smoke and spice from the oak. The full body is amply supported by the firm, slightly rugged tannins and surprising freshness to draw this to a persistent finish. Age this for five years before opening; it should last at least a further 20.
96 points. Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.